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Beauty Over 40: Step-by-Step Makeup Guide

Now that I'm over 40, what type of makeup products should I choose and exactly how do I apply them? Often that's the question women ask.  So, looking for some answers we asked makeup pro Lusine Galadjian, owner of the Los Angeles area's Makeup Spot, for some guidance.  Along with her celebrity clientele and editorial work, Lusine helps her individual clients in the over 40 age bracket continue to accentuate their beauty.  The following is Lusine's Step-by-Step Makeup Application Guide specifically geared for women over 40.

Step 1: Foundation

The foundation you use should be appropriate for your skin type and one that matches your underlying skin tone. Water based foundations are best for mature skin, and depending on the coverage you need, you can either use creams or liquids.

Using a foundation brush or a sponge, blend the makeup downward and outward.  Make sure to blend the makeup down the jaw line as well so that there is no obvious makeup line. Tinted moisturizers are great for dry or maturing skin because they don’t seep into lines and wrinkles and provide light sheer coverage.

Step 2: Concealer

For dark circles, use a concealer that is slightly lighter than your foundation and peachy in tone. Take special care with the skin under the eye by dabbing gently, as it is very delicate.  For concealing facial discolorations such as freckles, blemishes, or red spots, use a concealer that matches your natural skin tone and blend the edges well.

Note: Make sure to apply a thin layer of concealer and set with translucent powder to avoid creasing.

Step 3: Powder

After you apply your foundation and concealer, dust a light layer of translucent powder over the entire face with a large powder brush. This sets the foundation without making the skin look over-powdered like a sponge or powder puff can.

Step 4: Eyeshadow

Use a smoothing eye primer. This will prepare crepey lids so powder shadow can be applied more smoothly and evenly.  Your shadow will also wear longer without creasing or fading. 

First, set the primer with either your powder or a flesh toned shadow over the entire lid. Then, select a deeper color to shade the crease starting from the outer edge using a windshield wiper motion. Remember, lighter colors bring things forward and highlight and darker colors recede and add depth and shading. Therefore, if you have drooping eyes, shade the area right above the crease of your eyelid where it is drooping making sure to blend the outer edge of the shadow up and out. Practice your application and blend well; the goal is not to have obvious edges of color.

Note: Make sure to use shadows that are flat with no shimmer, because the shimmer will pick up the light and will accentuate any lines that you might have.

Step 5: Eyeliner

I like using powder with an angled liner brush to line the eyes. It contributes to a softer line that isn’t too harsh.  Position the brush as close to the lash line as possible starting with the inside of the eye and ending the line with a slight lift of the shadow. This will also lift the eye. 

Generally, the line along the lower lashes should be thinner and less-intense.  To make the eyes look bigger, only line the outer 2/3rds of the lower lash line and blend well. 

Note: You can line the inner ridge of the eyes with a flesh toned liner. This will also open up the eyes and give a more youthful look.

Step 6: Mascara

Lashes start to thin over time. To add fullness to the lashes, wiggle in black powder eye shadow into the roots of the lashes using a flat angle brush. Curl lashes and apply mascara beginning as close to the root as possible and wiggling your brush up and out. You can opt to go without mascara on the bottom lashes, which will keep the focus on the top part of the eye (which is what we want).

If you need extra thickening, you can use a lash primer before using your mascara.

Step 7: Eyebrows

Eyebrows also get thinner and loose their color over time. I like to shape the brows using a powder shadow.  It looks much more subtle and natural. For darker hair, use a color that is slightly lighter than your hair color. For lighter hair, use a color that is slightly darker than your hair color.  Apply the powder color using a wedge brush, working in the direction the hair grows.

Note: For parts of the eyebrows that are lacking hair, use a soft brown pencil to define the shape and then set with the proper color powder. This will help the color adhere to the skin.

Step 8: Blush

I like using a cream blush on more mature skin because it’s more hydrating and it looks more natural. If you do decide to use cream blush, remember to do it before you set your foundation with powder. Once you use powder, you have to continue using powder; otherwise it will not blend well. If you want your cheek color to last longer, you can layer it with a powder cheek color after you have set the cream cheek color with your translucent powder.

Note: Blend the color up towards your temples...this will give a lifting look to the overall face.  Remember to blend well using a clean sponge so there are no hard edges. 

Step 9: Lipstick and Lip Liner

To keep your lipstick from running into the fine lines you can first line your lips with a flesh toned lip liner (fill the lips in as well) and then set it with your translucent powder using a clean sponge. Then, apply the lipstick with a lip brush making sure to stop slightly before the edge of the lips.

Note: To make lips appear larger, highlight the center of the lips with a shimmer gloss.

Important:

Good brushes are essential for applying makeup:

Remember to knock the excess powder off the brush before you apply the color to your face.

Use the right brushes for the right areas…you will get the job done quicker at a fraction of the time. Make sure to hold the brush downward when washing them to avoid loosening the glue and let them air dry at the edge of the counter over night before using them again.

If you take care of your brushes, they will last a very long time.

And finally, have fun with makeup!! 

We couldn't agree with Lusine more. Makeup should be fun at every age. Now that you have the steps to a great makeup application, enjoy the experience.

Keep looking and feeling beautiful!

 

CarolCurly haired girl with blow dryer

 

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Everyone's skin and skin needs are different.  The data is for informational purposes only.  If you have any questions in regard to which products are appropriate for your skin, we recommend that you contact your dermatologist or other health care professional.

 

 

 

 

 

 
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